Excursion Spotlight: Via Roma
Filetto al Pepe Verde
Photography by Janet Warlick
It’s an unlikely location for an upscale, fine Italian dining restaurant in Hot Springs, Ark., but Via Roma Restaurant at 1521 Malvern Ave., is well worth a visit. Most things in Spa City revolve around the historic district, lakes or racetrack and casino. Via Roma, only open for dinner with a full-service bar, is two miles from the historic district and about 10 from the action on Lake Hamilton.
You will not be disappointed. The ambience and décor are classy. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just enjoying a night out with friends, you will immediately enjoy the personal greeting at the door as well as the attention to detail, such as the crisp tablecloths and white satin chair coverings with gold bows. Front-of-house staff smile, are friendly and equally welcoming to first-time customers and to regulars.
Owner Adriano Pricep said all of the recipes are homemade, Sicilian-style. His list of specials changes every three weeks. “I’m proud of all of my dishes,” Pricep said. He has 15 years in the restaurant business, first working for a family restaurant in New York City.
Via Roma has been open for two-and-a-half years, but Pricep is a familiar face to a segment of the population as the first restaurant he opened was the popular Italian House and Grill in Hot Springs Village. “I’m competing against the best of the best!” Pricep said, referring to his brother, Timotchi, who operates another local favorite — Jahna’s Italian Restaurant.
“We try to do different menus,” Pricep said. But, he was quick to tell us he has “the master of all masters” in his kitchen: chef Chico Santos. Our waiter helped us select the Antipasto alla Italiana — a mix of their appetizers — and Pricep made our dirty martini cocktails to perfection.
Sliced, hearty rosemary-infused bread arrived hot from the kitchen. Pricep said the bread is made daily; and it was the perfect accompaniment for the savory olive tapenade we all dipped into. Juicy, bright-red sliced tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella cheese were seasoned and dressed with extra olive oil and balsamic vinegar and topped with basil. Slices of prosciutto, kalamata olives, red onions, artichokes, basil and lightly breaded medallions of fried goat cheese finished off the dish.
From the specials list, we ordered a Filetto al Pepe Verde, a grilled, medium-rare 9-ounce filet topped with rich, cognac cream and green peppercorn sauce, accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed green beans. It was thick, nicely seared and rosy pink.
Between mouthfuls, comments from my companions included: “Delicious!” “That’s a good piece of meat!” “Wow. Oh my goodness!”
For our pasta course, we shared a salty, robust Spaghetti alla putanesca — sautéed with fresh tomatoes, black olives, capers, onions, anchovies and fresh basil with spaghetti. The sauce clung to the noodles, glistening in the candlelight, making for a sexy and savory dish!
The service is impeccable, and Pricep took care to individually greet his customers. Not only was he busy overseeing a solid menu with excellent service, he works to create relationships.
While we were a little disappointed the blood orange sorbet was unavailable, bananas foster arrived, and soon we were all dipping our spoons into a generous portion of this rich dessert with vanilla ice cream. The cinnamon, butter and liqueur concoction was not ignited at the table, but it still made quite a bubbling statement.
As we finished the last of our wine and espresso, The Originals song “Baby I’m for Real” played across the restaurant’s stereo system. Just like the Motown classic promises, you won’t want to leave Via Roma either.
Via Roma
1521 Malvern Ave. • Hot Springs, AR
(501) 318-1516 • viaromaspacity.com
Mon. through Fri., 5 to 11 p.m., Sat., 4 to 11 p.m.
