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Tapas are an innovative trend that has been picking up steam recently in Little Rock. We are seeing the addition of the “tapas” section on many local restaurants’ menus and a few — including Union Restaurant on Old Cantrell Road — that are even dedicated entirely to the theme. According to epicurious.com, tapas, which are popular throughout Spain, can be defined as appetizers that usually accompany cocktails. What’s great about these little plates is that you don’t have to pick just one menu item for your meal. Do the steak, pasta and honey glazed chicken all sound good to you? Have no shame — order them all! After a complete remodel, business partners Scott Marks and Lucille Snider opened this restaurant and bar in July 2009, in an old Lenny’s Sub Shop location. Marks got the idea for the restaurant from a friend, who started a very successful tapas-based establishment in Virginia. Marks is no newcomer to the restaurant business; he has been responsible for the fabulous fare of much-loved past bistros such as Mango Tango and Bella Italia. The atmosphere at Union is laid back, yet polished and classy. It has an upscale feel, but it won’t break the bank. “When we first opened we had white tablecloths,” Marks said. The interior is visible from outside, as the entire street side of the building is comprised of windows. “People thought it was really upscale and were apprehensive. The day we replaced the tables, we were super slammed,” he said.
The dÉcor at Union is modern with sleek couches in a lounge area and rich earth-toned colors throughout. Dine at any of the intimate tables with a partner, put tables together for a large group of tapas sharers, or just pull up a seat at the bar for a relaxing drink after work. The menu at Union is divided into hot and cold tapas. Prices range from $3 for a bread plate to the most expensive item, $14 for the New Zealand lamb chops with rosemary honey glaze and gouda grits, which according to Marks is one of the restaurant’s top sellers.
Other popular menu items include the petit filet of beef over garlic polenta cake and truffle mousse demi-glace; honey glazed chicken and waffles; and the sesame seared Ahi tuna with wasabi aioli, avocado and caviar.
On our visit, we shared the tomato stack with basil, mozzarella and balsamic redux ($6). This fresh dish is a great way to get a meal started. The heirloom tomatoes were fresh and juicy, and the mozzarella slices were soft and delicious. The dish was topped with a handful of sprouts for added aesthetic and substance and drizzled with a flavorful balsamic vinaigrette.
The charred asparagus with ginger and almonds ($6) is a plate of thick stalks of crisp, fresh asparagus with a fresh-from-the-grill and slightly charred flavor. They are sprinkled with toasted almonds that bring a smoky flavor to the dish. Our final selection was the sesame seared Ahi tuna with wasabi aioli, avocado and caviar ($10). If you are a sushi fan you will appreciate this fresh, healthy spin on tuna. The tuna steak is cut into thin, cracker sized discs sprinkled with sesame seeds for a crisp, toasted taste, then slightly seared around the outer edges and served rare on a plate with complementing condiments. For the perfect bite, we suggest you start with the fish, top it with a chunk of fresh avocado, spread a little caviar for a salty kick, dab on a dollop of the creamy wasabi aioli — depending on your taste — then swipe the concoction in a bit of the red hot sauce beautifully displayed on the plate. As you can probably tell, this was by far our favorite dish and the one we have never left off of our order on previous visits to the restaurant. As the definition states, tapas are a dish normally served with drinks. Union offers approximately 30 wine choices in a price range from $20 to $60 per bottle; wine is also available by the glass. The beer list is especially impressive with premium brews, such as Smithwicks, Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout, Moretti and Abita Purple Haze, as well as domestics and Diamond Bear products.
Enjoy happy hour at Union Monday through Thursday from 4 to 7 p.m, and live music on Monday and Wednesday nights. Late last month, the restaurant extended its hours and its menu to include lunch.
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