Truth be told, I was not supposed to eat at Old Mill Pizza last Friday afternoon. The original plan was to check out a new food truck across the street, but as is sometimes the case with mobile eateries, they were a no-show. No-show? No problem. You might remember me touting the plethora of food riches along JFK Blvd in North Little Rock. With that in mind, I phoned in a medium Old Mill Supreme pizza, waited fifteen minutes, then headed over.
This was my first time at Old Mill Pizza, the fairly new pizza joint started by a couple of former Pizza Café employees. The early buzz about this place was positive, but pizza is highly subjective and I am somewhat picky, so I went about things with cautious optimism. As is often the case, I tend to opt for the Supreme on initial visits, as I feel it provides a nice overall glimpse of what to expect from the restaurant. Old Mill’s comes with a plentiful and even dispersal of pepperoni, sausage, beef, green pepper, mushrooms, and onion. The restaurant gets bonus points for excluding green and black olives. Not that would have been a deal-breaker, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
The meats, veggies, cheese, and sauce were all spot-on, and I absolutely loved the prominence of oregano, but make no mistake, the absolute shining star of this pizza was the crust. And that includes the crispy bottom portion, as well as the braided edges. And yes, much like Pizza Café, expect to be offered some honey for the remaining “bones.” Old Mill Pizza is neither thick nor thin. It happily resides somewhere in the middle, giving it a unique taste and texture.
I should also note that I did not dine in at Old Mill Pizza, instead taking my pie and devouring two slices inside my car right in front of the restaurant. This is important. If you are not dining in, you will lose a little of that crunch after even a 10-minute transport. And the crunch is the magic. I suggest heating the pizza back up in the oven for a few minutes once you get home.
Obviously, I only scratched the surface of what this restaurant has to offer. There is a full selection of specialty pies, salads, and sandwiches that I look forward to trying out. Old Mill Pizza is a true neighborhood pizza joint, complete with a welcoming atmosphere and an open kitchen concept. Staff is super friendly. Local artists’ works adorn the far wall. It’s an overall happy place.
Even after only one pizza, I cannot help but speculate that Old Mill Pizza has a bright future. The restaurant is churning out some of the better pizza I’ve had in the area. Here’s hoping my next visit will be just as good. In the meantime, go find out for yourself.
Old Mill Pizza
4000 JFK Blvd (North Little Rock)
Phone: (501) 379-8539
Hours: Open Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m.